Who put the soy in my kielbasa?
Saturday, December 27th, 2008Most religious celebrations include a feast or two. Christmas is no different. Christians around the world usually celebrate with a big family meal on Christmas Eve or Christmas Day (or both). The feast typically includes special “only served on Christmas” dishes traditional to the particular celebrant’s geography. Poland is no different. And Christmas in Poland takes the inclusion of traditional foods to another level. Depending on the region, the table for Christmas Eve’s Wigilia feast (from Latin vigilare,"to watch") may include as many as twelve unique dishes. We never had that many dishes at our house, but my mother always made all the staple dishes. The evening would begin with the sharing of the traditional oplatek,
the Christmas wafer, traditionally exchanged by all present as a symbol of love, friendship, forgiveness and as a reminder of the importance of Christmas, God and family. Then the feasting would begin. Until recently the Polish Catholic Church designated Wigilia as a strict Black Fast, so back then meat was not allowed. All the dishes were meat-free. The meal would start with two or three fish dishes, typically breaded or braised carp or some other white fish and pickled herring, the latter an acquired taste for anyone whose palate hasn’t been trained to tolerate it since childhood. Next we would have barszcz (clear beat soup, in the
United States spelled borscht) with traditional uszka (“little ears”) dumplings or mushroom filled flaky pastry, then the meatless version of Poland’s traditional hunters’ stew bigos a savory mélange of sauerkraut and dried Boletus edulis (porcini) mushrooms, spiced with black pepper and bay leaf, and finally, for dessert, aromatic makowiec poppy seed cake or yeasty sweet bread with raisins and other fruit confit, similar to the Italian Panettone. Our Freethinker family
kept to the fast for the main part of the dinner according to tradition, but typically bent the rules after, so we did enjoy typical Polish meat products, like ham, various types of kielbasa, including my personal favorite, the skinny kabanos (plural, kabanosy).
Since the more traditional version of
bigos includes beef and kielbasa, my mother would typically make a meat-free batch for dinner and a “regular” meat and more batch for the next day (or rather week). I love bigos. I love kielbasa. And I was really looking forward to Wigilia and Christmas goodies since most (if not all) dishes are free of the allergens I am avoiding.
Kielbasa is a big deal in
Poland. We sourced our kielbasa and kabanosy for the occasion at a small local Polish food store, oddly enough called Kielbasa Euro Deli. I didn’t even think about it as I bit into my kabanos with gusto, remembering as I did so the many times I’ve had it before, since early childhood in Poland. Some six or eight hours later Max started arching like he had a tummy ache and he broke out with eczema and a telltale (stop reading now if you’re squeamish) diaper rash with pus filled bumps. I had seen that rash before. And it showed up every time I ate soy protein.
I felt betrayed and angry. Who dared to mess with *my* beloved kabanos? What a travesty! I knew that soy protein isolate (SPI) and milk in the form of whey or dry milk powder were frequent ingredients in processed Deli meats in the United States. And now it has apparently snuck into my kabanos. I was mad. My child was suffering, my own stomach ached, and since kielbasa comes unlabeled, I no longer trusted the other piece that was still in the fridge waiting to be incorporated into the bigos. I went out hunting for “safe” kielbasa. Finally found one by Smithfield, but I had to go to three grocery stores. Every brand I checked included the dreaded soy protein. At one point I really feared that I was about to miss out on the central dish of the traditional Christmas dish.
So who put the soy in my kielbasa and why? The “why” is easy. Soy protein isolate (SPI) is used in Deli meats to increase their protein content, add texture, emulsify and as a fat replacer in “diet” or leaner cold cuts. As the name implies, soy protein isolate is isolated protein, 90 percent minimum content. It is a highly refined or purified form of soy protein made from defatted soy flour. It is produced through a multi-step process involving high pressure, several “washes”, extrusion and heat, so the resulting protein can no longer be considered natural. The production process is more similar to the production of textiles, packing foams and plastics. Like dairy and its derivatives and corn, soy protein has become ubiquitous and is an ingredient in 6o percent of foods in the United States. Soy protein is big business.
The “who” is harder to answer. The website of Alibaba.com, the world’s leading B2B e-commerce company whose online marketplaces represent a community of 36 million registered users from over 240 countries and regions includes what is probably the most accurate information and statistics on major suppliers of soy protein isolate. It seems that SPI is manufactured in twenty different countries or regions. Not surprisingly, China is at the top with 288 distinct manufacturers. The United States has 17. But there are some unexpected countries on the list, including Iran, United Arab Emirates, Brazil and Venezuela.
So if it’s in everything we eat, it must be good for you, right? Not according to Mothering Magazine which has a great review article looking at research about the benefits and dangers of soy protein overconsumption. Titled Whole Soy Story: The Dark Side of America’s Favorite Health Food, it discusses the many uses of soy and looks at research which debunks the “good for you” myth. Most notably, soy protein acts like a phytoestrogen, potentially disrupting the natural hormonal cycle of infants (both male and female) and affecting the development of embryos of mothers who consume too much soy, potentially leading to early puberty and reproductive problems later in life. Other “bad” health effects possibly caused by overconsumption of soy in infancy in the form of soy formula is the accumulation of toxic amounts of manganese in the brain (tied to ADD/ADHD) and its toxic impact on the thyroid. And those are just a few of the negative health effects of soy.
So as much as it pains me to have to say that, I guess I’ll be avoiding kielbasa from now on, unless I can verify with the manufacturer that it’s free of soy protein isolate. I just hope that I can find some so I may enjoy my Polish heritage without worrying about an allergic reaction.
Being the calming influence in the household is a noble ideal, and I want to get there. But why is it that this, like all other parenting books I’ve skimmed, was apparently written for a family where everyone gets eight hours of sleep a night, has the time and bandwidth to read parenting books, and is otherwise healthy and content? (And why, for that matter, this book, like the majority of parenting books out there is written by a white male with a successful career built around parenting advice? In reality, how many fathers are the primary caretakers, dealing with most of the day to day challenges of parenting a child? I bet Mr. Runkel’s wife was doing the doing while he was (is) doing the writing and lecturing. But I’ll leave that for another rant.)
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